Smugglers’ Notch Mountain Resort

By Amanda May and Lucas Underwood

SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH (VERMONT) – With their best December in year and, powder dumps predicted for March, Smugglers’ Notch is one resort not to miss.

Not far from Burlington, and on the other side of the mountain from Stowe, this fantastic resort has been family-oriented for decades, but don’t mistake that to mean it’s all easy or that you can’t have fun there as an adult. They even have the only triple diamond black trail in the East.

Smuggs (as locals like to call it) offers instruction for skiers and snowboarders from level one (for first timers) to level nine (for those who can already dominate black diamonds, but want to experience everything from steeps to glades to terrain parks) and have an unconditional money-back guarantee if you don’t have fun, learn, or improve your technique (no matter your level). Director of Snow Sport University at Smugglers’ Notch, Peter Ingvoldstad, wisely reminds you in their promotional material that "even Olympic athletes need coaches."

New this year at Smuggs’ Snow Sport University are the MAX5 lessons. These 2.5 hour lessons are in groups of (you guessed it) five or less and start at 9:45 a.m. daily. This length of lesson time is great because it actually gives you time to get several runs in, watch yourself improve, and gives the instructors time to see and identify your bad habits before setting out on your own.

Smuggs boasts an average annual snowfall of more than 24 feet, more than found on both Sugarloaf, Maine and in Keystone, Colorado. It’s definitely worth the drive north on 91 not only to get to the good snow, but also to get to their quaint, self-contained village. You literally do not have to drive your car at any point during your visit once you arrive. They have an on-demand, in-resort shuttle that will taxi even single passengers between any two locations within the resort.

Named #1 for Service and Lodging in the Eastern U.S. in SKI Magazine Reader Surveys, their condominiums are luxuriously out of control. After a long day of snowboarding I implore you to come up with a better scenario than one with a fireplace and a warm bathtub with jets. Your body will thank you so much. Just make the reservations. You can stay in condominiums either within steps from their indoor pool and skating rink, slope-side (where you can ski-in and ski-out), or out into the picturesque woods.

Cries of "french fries!" and "pizza slice!" are the soundtrack to Morse Mountain at Smugglers’ Notch Mountain Resort. This beginner-friendly resort in northern Vermont dedicates one their three mountains to novices, and its there that you hear the commands for fast food, not the cafeteria.

Watching the tiny skiers maneuver their skis from parallel (french fries) to tips touching (pizza slice) while taking the Morse Liftline up is almost as entertaining as the ride down. Wait. Who am I kidding? Although it is cute (and sort of boggling that children that young can speed down the mountain but probably can’t tie their shoes), the cruise to the bottom wins, hands down.

Although it takes a certain amount of humility as a 25 year old to occupy the same mountain that is mostly covered by 5 to10 year-olds, it was the perfect place as a level three snowboarder. The powder conditions quelled beginners fears of falling and the Garden Path, Lower Morse Liftline and Magic Learning (yeah, so what?) trails were perfect quick runs for tuning the art of turning.

Another bonus of boarding on Morse Mountain was that at the gazebo at the bottom of the lift they offered hot chocolate one afternoon and Vermont Cabot cheeses the next.

When learning to snowboard, I got about as much guidance from my friends as I did from my old man when he taught me about the birds and bees. "Son, if you have sex, use a condom. Goodnight." With such fool-proof direction, I have managed to not only avoid procreation, but also become a decent snowboarder on my own. I will not wind up on the glossy cover of Transworld Snowboarding magazine or be Burton’s fresh face for 2008, but I can hold my own.

Having said that, I had never considered getting lessons once I got over those initial growing pains. I figured that from that point forward, any progress that was to be made was going to be achieved of my own device. Perhaps this attitude had as much to do with my stagnant abilities on a board as my infrequent trips to the mountains.

Smuggs newly developed MAX5 lessons program intrigued me. With a little skepticism I decided to try the lessons out and put their guarantee of improved technique and a good time to the test. I would not be disappointed.

Instructor Sean McLaughlin had 2.5 hours to improve myself and a young lady from NYC. The youngster and I talked on the way up Sterling Mountain, discussing our abilities and what we would like to improve upon. We were both pretty much up for anything so McLaughlin decided to take us down Upper Rumrunner, observing our technique and offering a couple of pointers before taking us into Highlander Glades. Once again we were offered tips. "If your going slow, use the trees to help you get along, if your going fast, avoid the trees." Sounds pretty intuitive until you get into the trees and you find out that the urge to grab a tree while moving at a swift clip is stronger than it should be.

During the course of the 2.5 hours, McLaughlin, one of many ultra talented riders that Smuggs has in its fleet of instructors, was able to offer me advice on glade riding, improved carving technique, riding switch, terrain park basics and how to de-thaw a numb foot. Perhaps of greatest value was his service as a guide of sorts. I was brought into glades that would have otherwise been left undiscovered.

So while Mr. McLaughlin was not able to get me into contention for a sponsorship, the lesson certainly lived up to its billing, and I am more stoked than ever about snowboarding. This is what McLaughlin is there for. "I am just here trying to get people excited about this sport," he told me. Mission accomplished, my friend.

Smugglers’ Notch may market itself as family friendly, but that should not turn off all you thrashers to the place. Smuggs offers two stellar mountains with a lot of variety of terrain for intermediate to expert riders, Mt Sterling and Mt. Madonna. Between the two mountains, there are hundreds of acres of black and blue trails and glades to explore. Along with separate intermediate and expert terrain parks and a halfpipe, there are features for every type of rider.

Smuggs prides itself on its glades, and with good reason. They added three new glades just this year. If snow has recently fallen on the mountains, you will find most of the off duty instructors indulging in the meticulously designed glades. If you have the unfortunate luck of getting to Smuggs during a snow drought, there’s no need to throw a pity party for yourself. Instead, keep your chin up and head over the terrain park.

Smuggs website is pretty exhaustive in its coverage of their mountains, and would certainly worth visiting if you’re the type that needs a plan before arrival. For those of us that couldn’t plan a party for one, just head up either Sterling or Madonna and go where it feels right, you can’t go wrong.

Check out Smugglers’ Notch’s website at www.smuggs.com or call 1 800 419 4615 for their full range of offerings, (too many year-round amenities to mention here). Smugglers Notch Resort is located at 4323 Vermont Route 108 South, Smugglers’ Notch, VT, 05464.

Average Prices

1 night stay including 1 day lift pass - $139 adult, $125 child

1 day rentals- $37 adult, $28 child